2nd Edition

Fashion Theory A Reader

By Malcolm Barnard Copyright 2021
    846 Pages
    by Routledge

    846 Pages
    by Routledge

    This thoroughly revised and updated edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader brings together and presents a wide range of essays on fashion theory that will engage and inform both the general reader and the specialist student of fashion. From apparently simple and accessible theories concerning what fashion is to seemingly more difficult or challenging theories concerning globalisation and new media, this collection contextualises different theoretical approaches to identify, analyse and explain the remarkable diversity, complexity and beauty of what we understand and experience every day as fashion and clothing.

    This second edition contains entirely new sections on fashion and sustainability, fashion and globalisation, fashion and digital/social media and fashion and the body/prosthesis. It also contains updated and revised sections on fashion, identity and difference, and on fashion and consumption and fashion as communication. More specifically, the section on identity and difference has been updated to include contemporary theoretical debates surrounding Islam and fashion, and LGBT+ communities and fashion and the section on consumption now includes theories of 'prosumption'. Each section has a specialist and dedicated Editor's Introduction which provides essential conceptual background, theoretical contextualisation and critical summaries of the readings in each section.

    Bringing together the most influential and ground breaking writers on fashion and exposing the ideas and theories behind what they say, this unique collection of extracts and essays brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we all think and say about fashion. This second edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader is a timeless and invaluable resource for both the general reader and undergraduate students across a range of disciplines including sociology, cultural studies and fashion studies.

    Introduction

    PART 1: Fashion and Fashion Theories

    Introduction

    1. Elizabeth Wilson

    Explaining it Away

    2. Gilles Lipovetsky

    The Empire of Fashion: Introduction

    3. Barbara Vinken

    The Fashion Zeitgeist

    4. Pierre Bourdieu

    Haute Couture and Haute Culture

    PART 2: What Fashion Is and Is Not

    Introduction

    5. Edward Sapir

    Fashion

    6. Nancy Troy

    Fashion as Art

    7. Fred Davis

    Antifashion: The Vicissitudes of Negation

    8. Georg Simmel

    The Philosophy of Fashion

    9. Ted Polhemus and Lynn Procter

    Fashion and Antifashion

    PART 3: Fashion and (the) Image

    Introduction

    10. Roland Barthes

    The Fashion System: Fashion Photography

    11. Paul Jobling

    Going Beyond The Fashion System

    12. Erica Lennard

    Doing Fashion Photographs

    13. Tamsin Blanchard

    Fashion and Graphics: Introduction

    PART 4: Sustainable Fashion

    Introduction

    14. Marie-Cécile Cervellon and Lindsey Carey

    Consumers' Perceptions of 'Green''

    15. Kate Fletcher

    Fashion, Needs and Consumption

    16. Alison Gwilt

    Fashion and Sustainability: Repairing the Clothes We Wear

    PART 5: Fashion as Communication

    Introduction

    17. Umberto Eco

    Social Life as a Sign System

    18. Roland Barthes

    The Analysis of the Rhetorical System

    19. Fred Davis

    Do Clothes Speak? What Makes them Fashion?

    20. Colin Campbell

    When the Meaning is not a Message: A Critique of the Consumption as Communication Thesis

    21. Malcolm Barnard

    Fashion as Communication Revisited

    PART 6: Fashion: Identity and Difference

    Introduction

    Gender

    22. Tim Edwards

    Express Yourself: The Politics of Dressing Up

    23. Lee Wright

    Objectifying Gender: The Stiletto Heel

    24. Joanne Entwistle

    Power Dressing and The Construction of the Career Woman

    LGBT+

    25. Annamari Vänskä

    From Gay to Queer - Or, Wasn't Fashion Always Already A Very Queer Thing?

    26. Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas

    Lesbian Style: From Mannish Women to Lipstick Dykes

    Social Class

    27. Angela Partington

    Popular Fashion and Working-Class Affluence

    28. Herbert Blumer

    Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection

    Ethnicity and Race

    29. Emil Wilbekin

    Great Aspirations: Hip Hop and Fashion Dress for Excess and Success

    30. Reina Lewis

    Muslim Fashion: Taste and Distinction; The Politics of Style

    31. Emma Tarlo

    Visibly Muslim: Islamic Fashion Scape

    32. Carol Tulloch

    You Should Understand, It's a Freedom Thing: The Stoned Cherrie - Steve Biko T-Shirt

    PART 7: Fashion, Clothes and The Body

    Introduction

    33. Joanne Entwistle

    Addressing the Body

    34. Ingun Grimstad Klepp & Mari Rysst

    Deviant Bodies and Suitable Clothes

    35. Laini Burton & Jana Melkumova-Reynolds

    'My Leg is a Giant Stiletto Heel': Fashioning the Prosthetised Body

    36. Malcolm Barnard

    Fashion, Clothes and The Body

    PART 8: Fashion: Production, Consumption, Prosumption

    Introduction

    37. Marco Pedroni

    The Crossroad between Production and Consumption

    38. Tim Dant

    Consuming or Living with Things? Wearing it Out

    39. Tommy Tse and Ling Tung Tsang

    Reconceptualising Prosumption

    40. Kate Fletcher

    Attentiveness, Materials, and Their Use

    41. Daniel Miller

    The Little Black Dress is the Solution, but what is the Problem?"

    PART 9: Modern Fashion

    Introduction

    42. Elizabeth Wilson

    Adorned in Dreams: Introduction

    43. Kurt Back

    Modernism and Fashion

    44. Richard Sennett

    Public Roles/Personality in Public

    45. Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas

    Walter Benjamin: Fashion, Modernity and the City Street

    PART 10: Post-modern Fashion

    Introduction

    46. Jean Baudrillard

    The Ideological Genesis of Needs/Fetishism and Ideology

    47. Jean Baudrillard

    Fashion, or the Enchanting Spectacle of the Code

    48. Kim Sawchuk

    A Tale of Inscription: Fashion Statements

    49. Alison Gill

    Deconstruction Fashion

    PART 11: Digital/New Media and Fashion

    Introduction

    50. Sandra Lee Bartky

    Narcissism, Femininity and Alienation

    51. Agnès Rocamora

    Personal Fashion Blogs

    52. Katrin Tiidenberg

    Bringing Sexy Back: Reclaiming the Body Aesthetic via Self-Shooting

    53. Agnès Rocamora

    Mediatization and Digital Media in the Field of Fashion

    PART 12: Global and Transnational Fashion

    Introduction

    54. Malcolm Barnard

    Globalization and Colonialism

    55. Jan Brand and Jose Teunissen

    From Global Fashion/Local Tradition

    56. Ian Skoggard,

    Transnational Commodity Flows and the Global Phenomenon of the Brand

    57. Olga Gurova

    Body, gender and discourse on fashion in Soviet Russia in the 1950s and 1960s

    58. Lise Skov

    Hong Kong Fashion Designers as Cultural Intermediaries

    Biography

    Malcolm Barnard is Senior Lecturer in Visual Culture at Loughborough University, UK.