'Fancy yarns' are those produced with some deliberate discontinuity introduced either into the colour or form of the article with the intention of producing an enhanced aesthetic impression. Most fancy yarns are produced by specialist spinners using machines modified or specially developed for the purpose; others are produced from 'fancy slivers' used as minor components of yarns made by spinners with normal equipment; still others are made exclusively by filament yarns, using adaptations of the airjet texturizing process.
This is the first reference book to be devoted to the design and manufacture of these complex yarns. It describes the major yarn types, yarn structures and manufacturing processes. It provides a detailed analysis of all types of fancy yarns, not only in terms of the technical requirements for their production, but also in relation to their impact on fabric and garment design and the marketing effort required to place them effectively within the market as a whole. The text is well illustrated with diagrams, drawings and black and white and colour photographs of yarn structures and the equipment used to create them. It contains close-ups of the yarns themselves together with an analysis to show how appearance and texture can be varied by changing the feedstock or machine settings. Textile hisatorians and conservationists will find the book especially useful in helping to identify yarn types in historical fabrics and in developing an understanding of the variety of yarns available in antiquity and typical uses for them.
INTRODUCTION AND BACKGROUND
Definition
Purpose and scope
Methodology
HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT
THE SIZE OF THE MARKET FOR FANCY YARNS
Introduction
Starting the successive scenario technique
The method of the successive scanario technique
MANUFACTURING ATTITUDES AND THE APPLICATIONS OF FANCY YARNS
Manufacturing attitudes and equipment
Applications for fancy yarns
INTRODUCTION TO FANCY YARN STRUCTURES AND ANALYSIS OF FANCY YARNS
Introduction
Analysing yarns
STRUCTURES AND FORMATION OF FANCY YARNS
Marl yarn
Spiral or corkscrew yarn
Gimp yarn
Diamond yarn
Eccentric yarn
Boucle yarn
Loop yarn
Snarl yarn
Mock chenille yarn
Knop yarn
Stripe yarn
Cloud or grandrelle yarn
Slub yarn
Nepp and fleck yarn
Button yarn
Fasciated yarn
Tape yarn
Chainette yarn
Chenille yarn
Cover yarn
Metallic yarn
MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES
Overview of production processes
Yarn production systems
Yarn and fabric trials
Future developments
THE DESIGN AND APPLICATION OF FANCY YARNS
Introduction
The design implications of fancy yarns
The use - or not - of luxury fibres
Intellectual property in design
Uses for fancy yarns
New yarns, new fibres, new ideas
The retail potential of fancy yarns
Retailing
Apparel fabrics
Furnishing fabrics
Designing the yarns
The design of fancy yarns using computers
Designing fabrics using fancy yarns and fancy doubled yarns
THE MARKETING OF FANCY YARNS
The market size and form
The markets available and marketing techniques employed
Historical evidence for the status of fancy yarns
The challenge of marketing
Management and marketing issues as they affect the fashion and fabrics industries
CONCLUSION