1st Edition

Herbal Principles in Cosmetics Properties and Mechanisms of Action

    462 Pages 154 B/W Illustrations
    by CRC Press

    Interest in the molecular and mechanistic aspects of cosmetic research has grown exponentially during the past decade. Herbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action critically examines the botanical, ethnopharmacological, phytochemical, and molecular aspects of botanical active ingredients used in cosmetics. Along with dermatological and cosmetic uses, the book also explores the toxicological aspects of these natural ingredients, maintaining a balanced view that carefully dissects the hype from the solid science.

    Contains Comprehensive Monographs of Herbs Useful for Skin Care & Diseases
    Authored by a panel of experts in cell physiology, phytochemistry, ethnopharmacology, applied botany, ethnobotany, and cosmetic science, the book begins with background in skin anatomy and physiology and also the classification, mechanisms of action, and application of herbal compounds. It provides monographs complete with therapeutic properties, specific action and dermatologic properties, toxicities, pictures, and references. The book also addresses the complexities of green biodiversity, including not only higher plants, but also mushrooms, algae, lichens, and bacteria – each chosen for their importance in traditional use, potential for innovation, or recent introduction to market.

    Includes a Vivid Color Insert with Photographs of Botanical Species
    Herbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action
    is one of the few books devoted to the mechanisms of action of herbal compounds based on scientific analysis, making it an exceptionally valuable reference for pharmacologists, natural product chemists, skin physiologists, and dermatologists.

    The Skin: Morphophysiological Traits and Disease
    Epidermis
    Dermal and Subdermal Tissue
    Cutaneous Annexes
    Skin Disorders
    References
    Botanical Compounds and Their Dermatological and Cosmetic Uses
    Lipids
    Terpenoids
    Phenols and Related Compounds
    Flavonoids
    Alkaloids
    Carbohydrates
    Glycosides
    Hydroxy Acids
    References
    Herbal Cosmetic Formulations: A Fuzzy Line between Actives and Vehicles
    Formulations and Skin Penetration
    Vehicles
    Surfactants
    Thickening Agents
    Penetration Enhancers
    Preservatives
    Noxious Side Effects of Topical Formulations
    Conclusive Remarks
    References
    Monographs of Herbal Principles
    Abyssinian Kale*
    Açai Palm
    Acerola
    Almond
    Aloe
    Argan Tree
    Baobab Tree
    Bearberry
    Bilberry
    Bladder Wrack
    Boswellia
    Brewer’s Yeast
    Burdock
    Buriti Palm
    Butcher’s Broom
    Chamomile
    Chasteberry
    Chlorella
    Cinnamon
    Coconut Palm
    Cola
    Cotton
    Cupuacu
    Dulse
    English Ivy
    European Elder
    Ginkgo
    Gotu Kola
    Grape
    Green Tea
    Guarana
    Hops
    Horse Chestnut
    Iceland Moss
    Indian Coleus
    Irish Moss
    Lemonbalm
    Licorice
    Linden
    Macadamia Nut
    Maerl
    Mafura
    Malabar Tamarind
    Mango
    Marula
    Methylxanthines
    Moringa
    Murumuru
    Neem
    Oarweed
    Olive Oil
    Perilla
    Pomegranate
    Purple Tephrosia
    Rosa Mosqueta
    Rosemary
    Round-Head Bush Clover
    Sacha Inchi
    Sausage Tree
    Savory
    Shiitake
    Soybean
    Spirulina
    St. John’s Wort
    Wakame
    Watercress
    Wheat
    Wild Yam
    Witch Hazel
    Yellow Sweet Clover

    *Each herb section includes Features, Constituents, Properties, Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use, Side Effects and Toxicity, and References.

    Biography

    Bruno Burlando, PhD, is a professor of Physiology at the University of Piemonte Orientale, Alessandria, Italy. His research interests concern the modulation of cell signaling in normal and transformed cells by redox mechanisms and bioactive compounds.

    Luisella Verotta, PhD, is an adjunct professor of Environmental Chemistry at the University of Milan and a contract professor of Phytochemistry at the University of Pavia, Italy. Her main research studies are in the realm of bioactive natural products, especially from plant sources, aimed at obtaining lead compounds for the development of new therapeutic agents.

    Laura Cornara is a senior researcher of Botany at the University of Genova, Italy, where she holds courses in Plant Biology, Applied Botany, and Ethnobotany. Her research interests are in ethnobotany and phytoremediation.

    Elisa Bottini-Massa is an expert in Pharmacy and Cosmetic Science and Technology. She is founder, managing director, and cosmetic designer of Helan Cosmesi di Laboratorio srl, a cosmetic manufacturing enterprise whose mission statement is to produce natural cosmetics in the respect of the environment and living beings.

    A panel of experts come together in this excellent book to address chemistry and molecular aspects of how herbs work on skin and the compounds in them that are responsible. The bulk of the text contains very comprehensive monographs on 70 popular herbs used for skincare that provide a detailed look at their properties and toxicity. All the newest ingredients, such as argan oil (Argania spinosa) are included ...Photos and chemical diagrams accompany each entry. This is all presented in an accessible format and very readible style.
    --American Herb Association, February 2011